Sushi Inaba

Yasu-san, a self-taught chef who grew up in a family of Tokyo fish importers, runs the six-seat counter at Sushi Inaba, tucked inside the more casual I-Naba on Hawthorne Boulevard. The meal runs twenty-plus courses, built around fish you don't see on most sushi menus: caviar-topped sweet shrimp, hairy crab in vinegar jelly, amberjack aged in kombu. Only six people eat at once, working through the same courses side by side. The counter earned a Michelin star in 2021 and has held onto it in every guide since.