SOOKDAL

A second-floor perch above a Western Avenue strip mall holds this restaurant, easy to walk past unless you're looking for the stairs up. The kitchen wet-ages its own pork belly, shoulder and jowl, and a card at each table walks through how to eat every cut, some dipped in wasabi, others wrapped in a pickled garlic leaf. Combos come with a choice of stew, and the banchan lineup includes a fusion risotto in cream sauce alongside the usual sides. It stays open past midnight most nights.