Venice Ramen

The recipes trace back to Ramen Hide, the Tokyo shop chef Hideki Mochizuki opened in 1994 as one of the originators of tonkotsu ramen; he now runs four locations in Japan. This Marina del Rey counter on Washington Boulevard makes its noodles and broth by hand, with a rotation that includes a clear-broth chuka soba topped with chashu, scallions, bamboo shoots, and a soft egg. The tonkotsu, the house specialty, runs thicker and fattier. Seats are limited, so call ahead if a table matters more than takeout.