Ryla

Husband-and-wife chefs Ray Hayashi and Cynthia Hetlinger, both alumni of Fishing With Dynamite, Arthur J, and MB POST, run the kitchen on Hermosa Avenue. Cranes painted across the walls and tables set close together give the dining room a buzzy energy that stays under control. The menu is built for sharing: Hokkaido milk bread with a tobiko-nori dip, hot chicken karaage dusted in togarashi, twice-braised ox tongue over curry rice. A private room in back seats 20 to 30 for larger groups.