Lee Ga

The buckwheat noodles for the naengmyeon are made in-house rather than reconstituted from dried sheets, served ice-cold at this Koreatown strip-mall spot on Vermont Avenue. Mandu arrive stuffed tight enough to see the kimchi through the wrapper, and the bulgogi comes soupy, loaded with glass noodles that soak up the broth. The marinated beef ribs are large and pull cleanly off the bone. Seolleongtang and other ox-bone soups round out a menu built for sharing.