Loreto

Set in Frogtown by the LA River, the dining room runs to exposed rafters, concrete floors, and a wrap-around bar, with a tree-filled courtyard and valet out front. The menu draws on Baja and the Sea of Cortez: aguachiles, ceviches, sashimi, and a whole butterflied fish that comes with rice, beans, tortillas, and quesadillas. The tostada a la Joaquin pairs fatty tuna with avocado, and a gin-and-mezcal martini leads the cocktail list. Reservations are open, and walk-ins are accepted too.