Ètra

Exit signs over the bathrooms cast green light across white tile floors and plywood walls at this Italian spot on Western Avenue. The carne cruda, chicory Caesar, and steaks hold up better than the pasta list. Reservations go fast online, but the restaurant keeps a chunk of the dining room open for walk-ins — arrive between 5 and 7pm for a seat, or sit at the bar, where a bartender pours a glass of chenin blanc while you wait.