Mother Wolf

Evan Funke cooks Roman food in the old Hollywood Citizen News building on Wilcox, a 1930s newspaper plant now holding a 150-seat room of pink banquettes, wooden columns inlaid with antiqued mirror, and Murano glass chandeliers. Handmade pasta carries the menu: cacio e pepe, spaghetti all'arrabbiata, alongside squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta and thin wood-fired pizza. Bar seating faces the floor, and Bar Avola sits next door with small Italian plates.