Ardor

John Fraser's vegetable-forward cooking fills the lobby restaurant of The West Hollywood EDITION, which has its own entrance off Sunset opening onto a backlit bar. Tandoor carrots arrive on hummus and eggplant with dill and mint, milk bread comes under caramelized beefsteak tomatoes, and a tower of onion rings is dusted in umami powder; meat and fish take up less of the menu and get the same handling. The gooseberry tart is finished tableside and has to be ordered well ahead, and reservations open 14 days out.