Sushi Sonagi

Dinner starts on the sidewalk of a Gardena strip mall, next to Torimatsu, where the night's guests wait at a plain door until they're brought in together. Daniel Son works the eight-seat blond-wood counter and explains each course of a two-hour omakase as he serves it: aged and salt-cured fish on the nigiri, soy-marinated raw crab, and crab rice cooked in a stone pot until the bottom crisps. His father ran Kura Sushi, now closed. Each night has two seatings, booked on Tock, and they sell out. Bottles can be brought in for a corkage fee.