Mapo Galbi

Next door to the Kaesong Kimchi store on St. Andrews Place, just west of Western, this plain room goes by Mapo Chicken in English and cooks one dish, dak galbi, for two or more in an iron pan set into each table under a vent. Marinated chicken, rice cakes and sweet potato go in first, then cabbage and perilla leaves, and the staff do most of the stirring. Cheese, udon and extra chile are the add-ons. Halfway through, they push the rest aside and fry rice with shredded seaweed in the leftover sauce until it crusts on the bottom.