
Pastry chef Nour Ramlawi, trained in Switzerland and seasoned by years in Dubai, builds desserts that look more like jewelry than food: bonbons glazed to a gem-like shine, Napoleons flecked with silver leaf, St. Honorés dripping threads of caramel. A pistachio choux donut and a chocolate-apricot square built on airy mousse are two of the better places to start, and neither tastes as sweet as it looks. The counter sits inside a minimalist, mostly white room, with boxes packed to go as often as pastries are eaten on the spot.
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